WINE BARS of VENICE: September 2023

Tuesday, September 12, 2023

Wine Bars of Venice

VINO VERO

VENICE

CANTINA do MORI

HEMINGWAY at The GRITTI

Ernest Hemingway & Wife Mary

VENICE, ITALY

The GRITTI PALACE HOTEL

Info & Reservations

VENICE

The HEMINGWAY SUITE

The GRITTI PALACE - VENICE

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The GRITTI PALACE HOTEL

LUXURIOUS ROOMS

The GRITTI PALACE

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The GRITTI PALACE Hotel

VENICE

Restored to its original splendor, The Gritti Palace is set in a former noble residence on Venice's Grand Canal, with views of Santa Maria delle Salute Church. All luxurious rooms feature antiques and Murano glass.

The Rooms come with air conditioning, a satellite flat-screen TV, and a private bathroom complete with bathrobes and slippers. Some rooms offer views of the Grand Canal, or of the city.

The Gritti Palace, a Luxury Collection Hotel, Venice is just a 5-minute walk from La Fenice Opera House and 1640 feet from St. Mark’s Square. The vaporetto water bus stop at Santa Maria del Giglio is 1312 feet away.

The hotel's Club del Doge restaurant serves dishes made with fresh ingredients from the Rialto Market. Breakfast is served in an elegant room with crystal chandeliers.

FIND a HOTEL in VENICE

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The DANIELI HOTEL

VENICE

Info

MOONLIGHT in VENICE

https://www.booking.com/hotel/it/gritti-palace.en.html?aid=1642480&no_rooms=1&group_adults=2

10 Best Wine Bars in Venice

"BACARI"

CANTINE do SPADE

A Favorite of CASANOVA

OSTERIA all ARCO

VENICE

All' ARCO

10 of VENICE'S BEST WINE BARS (BACARI)

Tour by a Native VENETIAN

A PLATE of CICHETTI

Bestselling Italian Cookbook Author

Daniel Bellino & Cousin Joe Macari

PROSECCO at a VENETIAN BACARO

CANTINE VINO SCHIAVI

One of VENICE'S MOST FAMOUS

VENETIAN WINE BAR

CANTINE VINO SCHIAVI

VENICE

all' ARCO

"The 1st BACARO I Ever Went To"

... says author DANIEL BELLINO "Z"

CICHETTI in CANNEREGGIO

BACARI Near San MARCO

VENICE

TRADITIONAL VENETIAN WINE SHOP

VENICE

"BRING YOUR OWN BOTTLE to GET FILLED with WINE"

Hemingways Favorite Hotel Venice Italy GrittiPalace

The GRAND CANAL

The GRITTI PALACE

The GITTI PALACE HOTEL

VENICE

The GRITTI PALACE

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The GRITTI PALACE

LUXURIOUS ROOMS

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EXPEDIA.com

Bar Longhi

Ernest Hemingway with Wife Martha Gellhorn

The GRITTI PALACE

VENICE, ITALY

Not only can I look down from Hemingway’s window, I can also sit in his chair."

Adrian Mourby in the newly unveiled Hemingway Suite at the Gritti Palace which reopened last month after an 18 month refurbishment.

Outside my window the men who punt the black traghetti back and forth joke while waiting for customers. The traghetto has crossed at this point for centuries. There are only a few places on the great serpentine coil of Venice’s Grand Canal that are still served by them, but when Hemingway, Somerset Maugham or John Ruskin wanted to get across the Grand Canal, these eminent men of English letters could just walk outside the Gritti Palace and step on board. It’s one of the many advantages of this sixteenth century brick palazzo that became a hotel in the nineteenth.

To commemorate these writers, the newly reopened Gritti Palace has named a suite after each.

Not only can I look down from Hemingway’s window, I can also sit in his chair. When the Gritti closed eighteen months ago for refurbishment, every item of furniture, every picture and Murano glass chandelier was labelled and stored, which is why I know that Papa Hemingway sat in this unremarkable low green chair. By the time Hem was staying at the Gritti he had grown corpulent, sitting here his belly would have rested low on his thighs. As I take his place, I can’t help wondering what he would have made of the new Gritti and the suite that bears his name. No doubt he would have found it all a bit over-decorated, and more to the taste of “Miss Mary”, his hard-faced fourth wife who is pictured on the wall opposite. She and Papa are standing on the terrace of the Gritti during one of her visits, circa 1949.

The HEMINGWAY SUITE

The GRITTI PALACE HOTEL

STAY in The HEMINGWAY SUITE

There is only one Gritti Palace, and there is only one true Hemingway's Suite.

Of course, as an avid Hemingway fan, I’m aware that when that black and white photo was taken Hem (left with Mary) was infuriating Miss Mary with a new infatuation. Ernest Hemingway was 50 and had recently fallen for a young Venetian artist, Countess Adriana Ivancich. She was only 19 and quite unaware of the strength of his feelings. Frustrated, Hemingway poured his passion into the worst he ever wrote, Across the River and into the Trees. The story is a thinly veiled fantasy in which an old American colonel, marked for death, is having a barely unconsummated affair with Renata, a young Venetian aristocrat. Hem wrote the book fuelled by crates of Valpolicella which he would buy from Harry’s bar round the corner. I feel rather sorry for the author, physically old before his time, staggering back to the Gritti at night or waking as light played on the surface of the Grand Canal, and taking a bottle of Valpolicella and the Herald Tribune to the lavatory with him, as Colonel Cantwell does.

A man needs toys. Big men need big toys.

When the book came out, it was a critical disaster. Worse Hemingway made the guilty mistake of dedicating his book of Adriana fantasies to Mary. No wonder she looks so tightly wound in that photo. Ironically the critical mauling that Hemingway received over Across the River and into the Trees spurred him to hit back with The Old Man and the Sea, which won him the Nobel Prize for Literature - though I’m sure Mary Hemingway would have had something to say about the fact that the cover illustration of that book was done by the young woman he fell in love with in Venice.

The HEMINGWAY SUITE

The GRITTI PALACE HOTEL

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VENICE HOTELS

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Models of HEMINGWAYS BOATS

The HEMINGWAY SUITE

And finally: Rum with a view.

The bar in the author's former suite is well stocked ...

The HEMINGWAY SUITE

The GRITTI PALACE HOTEL

Info & Reservations

In 1948, Hemingway stayed in Venice’s glamorous Gritti Palace Hotel , alon with other celebrated figures, like: Peggy Guggenheim, Elizabeth Taylor, and Richard Burton, and is still known as one of Venice’s most alluring luxury hotels. Even when Hemingway was in Venice and not staying at Gritti Palace, he came often to dine and socialize.

ERNEST HEMINGWAY

Behind The BAR - HARRY'S BAR

VENICE, ITALY

At this time Hemingway began to frequent Harry's Bar and befriends the owner Giuseppe Cipriani, a warm local man who took much pride in his establishment. At Harry’s, Hemingway could observe and meet people, while eating, drinking, and writing in style at his table in the corner. Although Hemingway was Harry’s Bar most celebrated guest, perhaps because he went so frequently, it is also known for entertaining famous creative characters like Charlie Chaplin, Alfred Hitchcock, Truman Capote, Orson Welles, and Woody Allen. The owner, Ciprani invented the ‘Bellini,’ a light, sparkling cocktail made with Prosecco and fresh white peaches, which is still served at Harry’s Bar. Hemingway was partial to Harry’s Montgomery cocktail, which was made with gin and a touch of vermouth, as well as Venice’s divine wines.

Seduced by Venice’s excellent wine and food, Hemingway soon craved more solitude and invigorating stimulation to write, so he moved to the Venetian island of Torcello. On Torcello, Hemingway had the chance to hole himself away to write. He also was able to engage in more active, adventurous pursuits, like jetting across the Grand Canal, and hunting game with his Venetian friends. On this tiny island, Hemingway wrote another novel, Across the River and into the Trees.

GIUSEPPE CIPRIANI & ERNEST HEMINGWAY

VENICE

HARY'S BAR, VENICE

ERNEST HEMINGWAY with Owner GIUSEPPE CIPRIANI

HOTELS in VENICE

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All that Remains of BAR CICHETTI, this Business card and a Storefront That's Been Empty for 9 YEARS

DANIEL BELLINO ZWICKE Opens the FIRST EVER BACARO (Venetian Wine Bar) to Exist in the
UNITED STATES

There was a guy named Daniel who took a trip in 1995 to Explore, seek-out, and Study the BACARI
(Venetian Wine Bars) of the Magical City of
VENICE, Italy. He had read a article in the
New York Times about these treasures of the
Enchanted City of the Adriatic, "La Serinisima"
Venice, "or as the Italians say VENENZIA."

Daniel was quite intrigued by this little article.
It was only 1 page long, but it was magical, and
it sparked Daniel's interest enough that he decided
he would go to Venice, an Exploritory Trip by which he in a weeks time would go to as many Bacari as he possibly could, eating Lunch, inbetween Lunch, Dinner and all through each and every night of the week. he tried as much CICHETTI (Venetian Tapas-Like little plates of all sorts of Venetian Specialty Foods.

He ate Bacala Mantecato, Sarde en Soar, Bigoli, Fegato alla Venenzian, Riso Bisi, Mortadella, Speck, and all sorts of other Cichetti, Antipasti, Pasta, Fish, Shell Fish, Meat, Poultry, this that and every other thing he could get his hands (Mouth) on.

Before he went, he did as much Pre-Trip Research as was possible in the "Times Previous to the internet"
When he was in Venice, he asked as many questions as he could, striking up conversations with anyone who would listen, "many did." !!!!

Daniel took lots of pictures, ate, drank Wine, and gather recipes. He was smitten with Venice, its Wine Bars (Bacari, BACARO the singular).

Daniel "Fell in Love," with the Wine Bars (Bacari) of Venice and felt he just had to open one in NEW YORK. He vowed. Knowone had ever done it. He would be the "FIRST"
Daniel gathered all his info, his RECIPES, pictures, book, everything. He worked on all his recipes, cooking constantly for Friends and Family, he made a Business Plan. He found a partner who "Loved the Idea" as well. They shook hands and vowed to open "BAR CICHETTI" the BACARO (FIRST VENETIAN WINE BAR) "EVER in the United STATES.

Daniel and Tom created a BEAUTIFUL
BACARO/ TRATTORIA, with special Imported Venetian Fabric for the banquettes, wainscotting,
a beautiful Wood Bar, and fabulous Venetian Glass Chandeliers and scones.

Besides coming up the Idea and Concept of Bar Cichetti, Daniel was the Wine Director and Excecutive Chef. Daniel's food was incrediable.His CAPONATA was the best in town, his Paparadelle with Duck Ragu was justifiably Famous, and as the Journal of Italian Food and Wine stated, his Bolognese Sauce was considered to be one of the "Best in the Country" Daniel garnered many accolades for the Wine List he created, but especially for his true and tasty Regional Italian Cusine, gaining positive reveiws from "The New York Times"New York Magazine, Crains, TimeOut New York, Wine and Spirits Magazine, and even a 5 Page Color Spread in a Newspaper in Sao Paolo, BRAZIL.

by Robert Roma 2009

WINE BARS of VENICE

Tuesday, September 12, 2023