WINE BARS of VENICE
Tuesday, September 12, 2023
Wine Bars of Venice
10 Best Wine Bars in Venice
"BACARI"
VENICE
Hemingways Favorite Hotel Venice Italy GrittiPalace
Not only can I look down from Hemingway’s window, I can also sit in his chair."
Adrian Mourby in the newly unveiled Hemingway Suite at the Gritti Palace which reopened last month after an 18 month refurbishment.
Outside my window the men who punt the black traghetti back and forth joke while waiting for customers. The traghetto has crossed at this point for centuries. There are only a few places on the great serpentine coil of Venice’s Grand Canal that are still served by them, but when Hemingway, Somerset Maugham or John Ruskin wanted to get across the Grand Canal, these eminent men of English letters could just walk outside the Gritti Palace and step on board. It’s one of the many advantages of this sixteenth century brick palazzo that became a hotel in the nineteenth.
To commemorate these writers, the newly reopened Gritti Palace has named a suite after each.
Not only can I look down from Hemingway’s window, I can also sit in his chair. When the Gritti closed eighteen months ago for refurbishment, every item of furniture, every picture and Murano glass chandelier was labelled and stored, which is why I know that Papa Hemingway sat in this unremarkable low green chair. By the time Hem was staying at the Gritti he had grown corpulent, sitting here his belly would have rested low on his thighs. As I take his place, I can’t help wondering what he would have made of the new Gritti and the suite that bears his name. No doubt he would have found it all a bit over-decorated, and more to the taste of “Miss Mary”, his hard-faced fourth wife who is pictured on the wall opposite. She and Papa are standing on the terrace of the Gritti during one of her visits, circa 1949.
There is only one Gritti Palace, and there is only one true Hemingway's Suite.
Of course, as an avid Hemingway fan, I’m aware that when that black and white photo was taken Hem (left with Mary) was infuriating Miss Mary with a new infatuation. Ernest Hemingway was 50 and had recently fallen for a young Venetian artist, Countess Adriana Ivancich. She was only 19 and quite unaware of the strength of his feelings. Frustrated, Hemingway poured his passion into the worst he ever wrote, Across the River and into the Trees. The story is a thinly veiled fantasy in which an old American colonel, marked for death, is having a barely unconsummated affair with Renata, a young Venetian aristocrat. Hem wrote the book fuelled by crates of Valpolicella which he would buy from Harry’s bar round the corner. I feel rather sorry for the author, physically old before his time, staggering back to the Gritti at night or waking as light played on the surface of the Grand Canal, and taking a bottle of Valpolicella and the Herald Tribune to the lavatory with him, as Colonel Cantwell does.
A man needs toys. Big men need big toys.
When the book came out, it was a critical disaster. Worse Hemingway made the guilty mistake of dedicating his book of Adriana fantasies to Mary. No wonder she looks so tightly wound in that photo. Ironically the critical mauling that Hemingway received over Across the River and into the Trees spurred him to hit back with The Old Man and the Sea, which won him the Nobel Prize for Literature - though I’m sure Mary Hemingway would have had something to say about the fact that the cover illustration of that book was done by the young woman he fell in love with in Venice.
Sunday, October 30, 2022
Romantic VENICE Gondola Ride
SEE ROMANTIC VENICE
On a GONDOLA Ride
Group & Private Tours of Venice
- Float down the Canal Grande on a private gondola ride
- Discover hidden gems only accessible by gondola
- Admire the palaces of Venice
Board an authentic gondola and take a romantic journey along the Canal Grande in Venice. See the historic sights along the shoreline as you glide down the canal.
Set off from the departure point and admire marvelous palaces, such as the Peggy Guggenheim Collection and Basilica Santa Maria della Salute. Explore the secret waterways of Venice and soak up the city's atmosphere with your friends or your beloved. Travel by gondola close to St. Mark's Square, Fenice Opera House, Punta della Dogana and many other charming palaces. Pass under a small bridge as you discover the hidden spots reachable only by gondola. Enjoy commentary on your mobile app as you discover the stories and secrets of the city.
Tour Price is for The Entire GONDOLA for You and up to a Total of 5 People
ONLY $119 US Dollars for Up to 5 People, or Just a Romatic Ride for 2 ...
Venice Public Transportation - Getting Around Venice
GETTING AROUND VENICE
Tuesday, October 4, 2022
Caffe Florian Venice
VENICE
Cafe’ Florian was open for the first time in 1720 under the name Alla Venezia Trionfante. However, this name did not last long and Caffe’ was renamed Florian after his owners name Floriano Francesconi.
This Cafe’ used to be a cultural hub for a number of artists, intellectuals, architects and historians during its long history. Even the famous and infamous Giacomo Casanova is believed to have frequented these quarters for his own insatiable carnal pleasures right at this cafe’.
If our visitors would like to experience a true Venetian spirit, they should visit Florian Caffe’.
BACARO.... VIDEO of a VENETIAN WINE BAR
My WINE BARS of VENICE Youtube Video
ANTHONY BOURDAIN eats CICHETTI and Seafood Risotto in VENICE
CASANOVA
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Map of VENICE

Venice Map